“You can just throw anything anywhere and it will decompose and fertilize the other stuff. It’s pretty laid back, my kind of garden,” he said, throwing the lovage into an empty patch of topsoil."
Chef Eduardo Garcia
Back in the kitchen, we sipped a fine reposado tequila while Garcia carved steaming bits of meat off the whitetail shoulder, preparing to add them to the sofrito. Pozole is a Latin version of hominy, a light broth made with whole kernels of corn. Garcia had already prepared a fresh batch of chicken broth that morning, which he then used to make a purée of toasted and simmered guajillo peppers. “This is the most important step,” he said, adding the purée to hot avocado oil in the bottom of the terracotta bowl. “Frying the pepper purée will concentrate the flavors and enhance the color.”
To the frying purée, he added more broth, a couple of bay leaves, and the meat, and then he left it to simmer on the flame for another hour.
"This shoulder comes from a two-year-old whitetail buck. My friends laughed at me when I shot that deer, but I told them, ‘I’m not trophy hunting, I’m grocery shopping’."
Garcia grew up hunting the hills around Emigrant, in Montana’s Paradise Valley, south of Livingston, where he moved with his family from Mexico in 1986, when he was six years old. “I’ve been cooking deer longer than any other meat, and roasted whitetail shoulder is my favorite wild game dish because it takes me back to my roots, hunting deer and butchering them on the spot with very little adult supervision, cooking whole quarters on the bone over an open flame with my buddies,” he told me. The pozole is a tribute to his family’s roots south of the border, and I was fortunate to share this particular batch with Garcia’s father, Manuel Garcia, 68, who taught Garcia to cook with the recipes and spices of his native village in the Yucatan Peninsula, Isla Mujeres. Manuel Garcia was taking a nap when I showed up, but he roused himself to guide me and a couple of other lunch guests through the proper method of hand-pressing and cooking corn tortilllas on a comal or griddle as we know it here in the states.
When the pozole was finished, Garcia set the table with plates of radishes, chopped white onion, avocado, cilantro, and lime for garnish. Manuel Garcia sat at the head, and Garcia served him first. “What would you like, Dad, more broth or more meat?” he asked. “Just dip a ladle in and see what comes out,” his dad replied. Garcia dished up a steaming ladleful and garnished his father’s bowl. The old man ate a spoonful and his eyes closed halfway, “Que rico,” he said. How delicious.